As a bespoke tailor with over 8 years of experience, I’ve seen countless gentlemen walk into my shop believing they know what “good fit” means – only to be amazed when they see themselves in a truly well-fitted garment. Today, I want to share the secrets that separate the well-dressed from the merely clothed.
Why Fit Matters More Than You Think
The difference between looking sharp and looking like you’re wearing your father’s suit often comes down to a few critical measurements. I’ve watched confident businessmen transform their entire presence with nothing more than proper shoulder positioning and correct sleeve length. It’s not magic – it’s precision.
After years of fitting suits for executives, grooms, and style-conscious gentlemen, I’ve learned that most men have never experienced true custom fit. They accept “close enough” from department stores, not realizing how much better they could look and feel.
The Foundation: Your Dress Shirt
Let’s start with the basics. Your dress shirt is the foundation of any great look, and it’s where I see the most common mistakes.
The collar should barely kiss your neck – not strangle it or gap like a loose turtleneck. When I fit a collar, I ensure you can slide two fingers underneath without the fabric pulling against your skin. If your collar turns when you turn your head, it’s too tight.
Sleeves are non-negotiable. They should end right where your hand begins – about 2cm above your wrist bone. Too long and you look like a child in grown-up clothes. Too short and you appear to have outgrown your shirt. The cuff should be snug enough that it doesn’t slide past your wrist when you raise your hand.
The shoulder seam – this is where department store shirts often fail. The seam should sit exactly at your shoulder point, not drooping down your arm or pulling across your back.
The Art of the Perfect Suit Jacket
This is where my craft truly shines. A well-fitted jacket should feel like a second skin – supportive but never restrictive.
Length is everything. Your jacket should cover your seat (yes, that’s the technical term we use), but the exact length depends on your proportions. Some style guides say it should reach your knuckles, but I prefer to fit each man individually. The second button should sit just above your navel – never below.
Shoulders make or break the entire look. This is the one area where alterations can’t save a poor fit. The shoulder seam must align with your natural shoulder line. I look for smooth fabric with no pulling, bunching, or divots. When I see a man in a properly fitted jacket, his shoulders look broader and more defined naturally.
The sleeve length coordination is what separates custom tailoring from off-the-rack adjustments. Your jacket sleeve should reveal about 1-2cm of shirt cuff – what we call “showing cuff.” This detail alone elevates your entire appearance.
Trousers: The Unsung Heroes
Most men focus on jackets and ignore their trousers, but I spend just as much time perfecting the fit below the waist.
No belt should be necessary to keep your trousers up. If you need a belt for support rather than style, the waist is too large. I fit trousers to sit comfortably at your natural waist without relying on a belt.
The break is crucial. I prefer a slight break – a small fold where the trouser meets your shoe. It’s elegant without being fussy. Trousers that puddle around your ankles or hover above your shoes both look unfinished.
Thigh and seat fit require experienced eyes. The fabric should follow your leg’s natural line without being tight or baggy. I can usually tell within seconds if a man is wearing properly fitted trousers just by how he moves.
The Details That Matter
After decades in this business, I’ve learned that the smallest details make the biggest difference:
- Armholes should be high enough that you can move your arms without the entire jacket lifting
- Button stance affects your entire silhouette – too low and you look bottom-heavy
- Fabric choice impacts fit just as much as measurements
- Proper pressing maintains the shape we’ve so carefully created
Why Bespoke Makes the Difference
Off-the-rack suits are made for the “average” man – but I’ve never met an average man. Everyone has unique proportions, such as longer arms, broader shoulders, a higher waist, or an athletic build. Mass-produced clothing can’t account for these individual characteristics.
When I create a bespoke suit, I’m not just taking measurements – I’m studying how you move, how you carry yourself, and what you want to project to the world. Do you gesture frequently when speaking? I’ll adjust the armhole height. Do you have an athletic build? I’ll modify the jacket structure to accommodate your physique without compromising the line.
The Investment in Yourself
I often have clients tell me they “never realized” how good they could look until they wore a properly fitted suit. It’s not vanity – it’s confidence. When your clothes fit perfectly, you stand taller, move with more assurance, and project competence.
A well-fitted suit is an investment in every important moment of your life: job interviews, presentations, special occasions, and daily interactions. It’s the difference between hoping you look good and knowing you do.
Ready to Experience Perfect Fit?
If you’ve been settling for “good enough” or wondering why your clothes never quite look right, it’s time to experience true custom fit. Every gentleman deserves to know how good he can look when his clothes are made specifically for him.
I invite you to visit my shop for a consultation. We’ll discuss your style goals, assess your current wardrobe, and create a personalized plan to build a collection of perfectly fitted garments. Whether you need a single suit for a special occasion or want to rebuild your entire wardrobe, I’m here to help you look your absolute best.
Contact us today to schedule your personal fitting consultation. Your perfect suit is waiting.
