Is your suit canvased or fused?

Different suits

As you all may know there are 3 main types of suits that you can buy. Suits that are directly off the shelves, called mass production suits. Normally they are not that expensive, but having a ‘Versace’ label on them changes the price league. Nowadays you have what’s called made-to-measure (MTM) suits. Before you start being so smart and knowing what it is, let me tell you something you probably didn’t know! Here are the 2 options in MTM suits.

  1. Let say shop A that sells suits, will take a suit from the racks and make a few alterations to fit your body proportions. There are some pros and cons, if you would like to know more about them, write it in the comment section!
  2. Shop B in the same category, they’ll tell you that they start making a suit from scratch. You would say that’s bespoke, wouldn’t you? Here is the trick you didn’t know about. Your choice will be limited to a specific model/style of suit, but not in the fabrics. The tailor will put a similar suit on you and make notes of the differences. Back at the atelier, they will take the pattern and add or remove the necessary amounts to the pattern of that model to fit your body. 

Nevertheless  I want to say is that you should always be careful on what you spend your money on. If you would know the process (company’s transparency on their process) then you can decide for yourself which brand to opt for.

The last type of custom made suits or tailored suit, are the bespoke ones. To keep this short and sweet, it’s basically made from scratch to all your demands and choices. There are no limits, bespoke tailoring strives to make perfectly made garment(s) to your body requirements and most of it, is hand stitched. Every single thing is handmade, only the exception of the raw materials.

So what is canvas?

This is the topic you came for, canvas! Canvas is a fabric, just like a fabric you’re wearing right now. But this fabric is “sturdier” which is used inside your suit. You can find it between the fabric layer and the inside lining, which can be silk. Canvas is the interfacing material, interfacing means materials used inside your suit which you can not see. Having canvas inside your suit adds some weight to it, most importantly is doesn’t leave those wrinkles in your suit or nay ugliness.

Canvas can be made from different materials, but the best ones have Hz or horse hair in its mix. The cost per meter with more %-Hz, will cost you more. Depending on the tailor and his style and the client’s preference, they can use a mix of horse hair and cotton. This will make your garment or suit look a specific way.

How is canvas being used?

Canvas is mostly used for the front part of the suit. That’s what you want to look more sturdier and smoother, right? We place the canvas from the shoulders to the hem of the blazer and also for the collar. The use of canvas is fairly simple, the most difficult part is the hand sewing.

The building up process goes as follows. First you have your outer fabric, that’s the fabric that you’ll show to the public when you wear your garment. On top (inside) of that fabric comes the different canvases in a correct order. Later in the process tailors add more canvas fabric as they call it “a chest piece”. On the picture below you can see how the sewing process is done on the different fabrics, all hand made.

– Image by Gusev Bespoke Academy

What brings the canvas to the suit?

The canvas will make your jacket look straighter. Your blazer will have a nice falling structure on your body, so clean like it’s always ironed. The magic of the canvas and sewing, is that it will always take the original structure on how the jacket was made. The lapel won’t bend in the other direction it will stay right as it was made for you. Over time the suit will bend on to your body structure and will give you a more natural look.


What’s the deal, should you buy it?

Let us get to the business part! Buy or not? In my opinion, it depends on a few factors that are really common. First thing, will you be wearing it every day? If the answer is yes, I definitely would go for it. Choose such a jacket that you can match it to different trousers, because the trousers are worn out much faster than a jacket.

If you are not the guy who will wear a suit 24/7, but only for some special occasions, I would not. Maybe you’re planning to have one quality suit for your current or future job? If you have some money saved I would suggest to go for the half-canvassed jacket. Same rules will be applied to the trousers match as in the paragraph above.

It’s the look that attracts everything, the sharper you dress the better the deals. Women or money, that’s all up to you!

– AlexNass


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